"SAVORING THE FLAVORS OF HOME: REFLECTIONS ON MANILA'S VIBRANT DINING SCENE" by NICOLE A. PONSECA

 Savoring the Flavors of Home: Reflections on Manila’s Vibrant Dining Scene

By Nicole A. Ponseca, author of

I Am A Filipino And This Is How We Cook

For the past 20 years, my culinary journey through the Philippines has been one of discovery and rediscovery, rooted in the diverse and rich heritage of our archipelago's flavors. From my travels through the most northern tip of Pagudpud all the way down to the far southern reaches of Tawi-Tawi, I’ve had the privilege of experiencing the full spectrum of Filipino cuisine. 

Whether it’s iconic dishes loved by many or lesser-known gems that reflect the unique spirit of each province, the Filipino culinary landscape continues to evolve, driven by passionate chefs and culinarians committed to both preservation and innovation.

In the provinces, I found honesty and tradition on every plate, each dish a reflection of regional character and local bounty. Yet, in Manila, my enthusiasm was often tempered by a culinary landscape that seemed to favor foreign flavors. Thai, Greek, dim sum — these were the highlights, while our own cuisine quietly thrived in the shadows of humble eateries. Sure, there were classics like Via Mare and Abe’s, but when I compared our dining landscape to other countries (e.g. Italy, France, Thailand, etc.) I was curious why Manila hadn't championed its own cuisine in the same manner. 

Well, times they are a-changing. I predict that by 2030, Manila will emerge as one of Asia’s most exciting culinary capitals, drawing food lovers and critics from around the world to experience the innovation, flavors, and craftsmanship of delivered through the lens of Filipino flavors. 

The timing couldn’t be more perfect: our hospitality industry has evolved dramatically, and an expanded repertoire of high-stakes Filipino restaurants is leading the way. These establishments, known for their unique perspectives, refined style, and ambitious price points, are redefining Filipino cuisine in ways that were unimaginable just a mere five years ago.
Economists, including those from the Asian Development Bank (ADB), forecast that by 2030, 50% of the Philippine population will be under the age of 25, precipitating a dynamic, youthful consumer base ready to fuel new industries with their pesos. With these demographic advantages and continued investments in infrastructure, the Philippines is on the brink of unprecedented growth, particularly in its dining and tourism sectors, which is expected to double in 6 years!
Still, opportunity alone isn’t enough. While the future looks bright, we must be prepared to rise to the occasion. It’s not just about timing, but about preparedness meeting opportunity. Michelin’s anticipated entry into Manila by 2025 signals the world’s growing interest in our food scene, and we have a unique opportunity to cement Filipino cuisine as a lasting influence on global gastronomy. 

In my humble opinion, areas worth focusing include collaboration of our global Filipino network of operators and founders, the mentorship of chefs encouraging them to learn abroad but coming back home to roost, supporting local agriculture to ensure the rise of domestic product and prominence, and a scrutiny to service.

Hapag restaurant in Manila at Power Plant Mall. Photos by Nicole Ponseca.

I believe that with passion, preparation, and unity, we can take Filipino cuisine to extraordinary heights. Together, we can preserve our culinary heritage while pushing boundaries and ensuring that the world fully celebrates the richness of our food culture. Let’s embrace this moment, confident that our best days are still ahead.

First published in Jeepney, a newsletter

by Nicole A. Ponseca, Sept. 27, 2024

*****

Nicole Ponseca, a Filipino culinary trailblazer, catapulted to prominence as the visionary founder of of two groundbreaking restaurants that kicked open the door for Filipino food in America. Her groundbreaking efforts earned her restaurants multiple Michelin Guide recommendations and a coveted 2-star rating from The New York Times. Recognized as "an empire in the making" by The New York Times and for her "immeasurable" influence on Filipino-American restaurants by The Washington Post, Ponseca's impact is undeniable. Leveraging over 20 years of culinary research, her book I Am a Filipino became a James Beard Award Finalist and received critical acclaim from publications like The New York Times, LA Times, and SF Chronicle to name a few and went into a third printing after only 3 months.  As CEO of Jeepney Foods, Nicole aims to change the way we access Filipino Food in America and beyond with next years first ever International Manila Food Festival. She currently splits time between Miami and Manhattan and continues to raise awareness for Filipino culture through her mentorship, volunteer work and leadership. Follow her on instagram @nicoleponseca